After our last month comparison t-shirt, we decided to look at a new staple of menswear, namely the raw jeans. Indeed, since the jeans is jeans, the man always had a special relationship with these kinds of models. Can also find almost no part that survived successive fashion trends without never to lose its status as an unavoidable. Today, we have 10 side by side to compare them and to write. Here is our comparison of 10 raw jeans for men:
1. The history of jeans
Contrary to what one might think, made denim pants already existed before the arrival of Levi’s in this market. In fact, you write originated in the 17th century during which English merchants would have distorted the name of this substance purchased in the South of the France named the serge of Nîmes. That said, the turning point of the story was indeed obtaining the patent 139,121 named “improvement in Fastening Pocket-Openings” achieved by two men: Levi Strauss and Jacob Davis, a Bavarian, a Latvian, who had emigrated to the United States around the 1850s. The second being a tailor was ask her husband that would last more than a year of work by a customer making a solid pants. Quite randomly, Davis fell on a heap of copper rivets and had the idea to hang them at the most sensitive of the Pant ends. We are then on May 20, 1873 and the jeans was born!
Learn more in our article on the history of jeans.
2. The criteria for choosing a jeans
Before getting into the heart of the matter, it seems important to detail points that make a good pair of jeans a good pair of jeans. These criteria, we have set our shopping experiences fort and collecting opinions of professionals. They will also guide to note patterns of this comparison.
A. the fabric
As for any play mode, it goes without saying that the material in which it is conducted will be critical. Thus for jeans, one speaks of denim “selvedge” (or selvedge), meaning that it has been woven on traditional looms, giving a good armor tighter and far more robust on a modern trade. Generally, recognized a fabric selvedge by the colorful edge he trained at its end. In the case of a jeans inside leg, throughout the outside seam that can be seen at the level of the hem. More qualitative, this fabric has also a more beautiful appearance and a rigid feel. For more information, see our article what is that selvedge denim?
Notion of weight
A fabric of jeans is of variable thickness and in the spirit, he can’t testify to its quality (in fact, the brands who venture to thicknesses some are often safe values). In general, a fabric is measured in grams per square meter, basically, cut a square of 10 × 10 cm and it weighs. For denim, it’s the same thing except that one uses the anglo-saxon system of measure, namely in oz (Ounces, or Oz). As a result, some jeans will be cut into more or less thick materials that will affect the comfort, because more jeans heavy, more it will be rigid and it will be difficult to “break” (to soften it) in order to win in comfort. If you have not used, a model of 12oz can quickly prove to be too thick and rigid for you. While for some, it will be too light. Finally, remember that a heavy jeans will tend to get a much higher wash over ports, reason why it is popular with purists.
Again, this criterion attractive to any clothing there are specificities regarding the jeans. Thus, based on the classics of the genre, be expected strongly the presence of:
- the buttons
They are an important part of all jeans and must be strong and resistant to various elements.Imagine that your button fails and you have to change it, or worse, that it rust.In this area, there is no miracle recipe and brands use all kinds of metals according to their habit.
- the rivets
They must offer the same features as the buttons in order to keep the harmonious whole visually.We choose so in the same color and the same metal as the buttons.Also, they must be securely fixed, because everyone does not a Riveter on hand at home. According to the brands, we can find them in various forms and according to jeans, we can even find on the pockets back, flat, so that the Cowboys do not damage the saddle of their horse, but it is today even more rare.
- pocket money(corner pocket))
In the language commonly used for the ready-to-wear, one speaks of “pants 5 pockets” to designate the jeans. In addition to the four main pockets (two front, two behind), the fifth is the small notch (riveted in the best of cases) that are found on the right, sewn on the main pocket. Originally, it was planned, during the invention of the jeans at the end of the 1800s, to accommodate a pocket watch. Time measurement and we found him various uses and various names, where the most used “corner pocket”. She can wear various finishes such as a border, in the same way as the hem of a pair of jeans.
They will be a point which it will stay absolutely uncompromising, and they must be spotless before purchase. For example, check-so the sharpness of points and their distance.At most they are close together, as the seam will be solid.Sign of quality: sometimes the ends sensitive as the corners of pockets will be provided with breakpoints. Finally, you say that is a wire hanging down, maybe a future hole in your jeans.
C. The cut
A good cut of jeans is a totally subjective as there are many parameters to be taken into account on this point. Principal: same cut does not go to all body types. That said, every person can today find the jeans that suit him best through variation of the parameters of inseam (size high, normal, low waist) and leg (right, skinny, slim, tapered…)
The cutting unit became totally subjective and depends on how you like to wear your jeans. However, we can find a common basis to know that jeans are okay. First size: you can hardly close the last button however gently like a brute. The jeans to relax (on the order of 2 cm) later and you will feel more comfortable. Then he must respect the Cup features advertised compared to your morphology. For example, I choose a slim, it must be cut close to the body without however casting the thighs, buttocks and calves.
3. Our comparison
For goods of this subject, we have selected various raw jeans models varying marks, cuts and prices. Also, we don’t focus on gross models to present viable comparisons. Because the raw jeans is one of the most common fashion pieces, had to make choices and dispense with some models. For each jeans, a Committee of 4 experts has been assembled to determine notes on the canvas of the models, their finish and their Cup. So, we got an overall average for each. Enter without delay in the heart of the matter with our 10 raw jeans screened models.
Model tested: ‘small Standard ‘.
This is now one of the greatest classics when it comes to talk of selvedge jeans. Indeed, since its inception in 1987, APC has retained in its range its panoply of cuts in a Japanese fabric 14.5 oz (from Kaihara denim).Over the years, the recipe has been little changed in view of the success of the models to the public, as savvy beginners, who have long prized for their excellent brand jeans. In our hands today, we had one of their most popular cuts, the ‘small Standard’. It’s a real slim with a fitted leg from top to bottom and a normal size. Its design is very minimalistic, jeans 5 pockets with 5 passers-by, rivets silver on the front and a classic buttonhole. Finally, APC jeans are now produced in the Viet Nam (previously it was at Macau in China).
The where the rub at APC, it’s especially when it comes to choose his size, making the issue one of the most commented on the forums of fashion from around the world. As everyone else I would want to say, too I was wrong the first time finding me with a too wide model. My advice then, opt for 1 size larger than your usual (I usually 32, I took the ‘Standard small’ in 33). The first time that seen in real life, the jeans immediately seduced by the beauty of its Web. It is quite clear and offers superb reflections foreshadowing a good aging. His rigid touch is also a sign of quality and when you put on jeans, you realize why APC is a benchmark for jeans. Its cut is faithful to what Announces datasheet, namely slim with a normal crotch, and her sleek style as possible which can be double-edged. If the first few days are not really the most comfortable, the jeans quickly reaches its status as a second skin. In short, the brand has managed to create what she calls a “new standard” in jeans, and that it is strong!
Model tested: “Dictator” Japanese Selvedge
We know April 77 as a true specialist in the jeans, only they did offer so far of fabric selvedge of periodicity. Now, the brand seems to have taken the measure of this market “XV” several fabrics they decline on their models ‘Dictator’ and ‘Joey ‘. If the brand has a generic selvedge fabric in its range, she launched in 2015 a special range Japan whose price is higher but the superior quality. Raw jeans are cut in a denim selvedge of 13.5 oz from Okayama and natural indigo dyed. The fabric meet with 5% polyurethane to ensure to all a slightly stretch side. About the characteristics of the jeans in her even, we’re still on a basic with a model 5 pockets adorned on the front of a buttonhole, 5 copper rivets and belt loops 5. On the “corner pocket” there as tradition on the jeans of the brand a yoke leather returned with a guitar pick and a patch in the same leather love on the right rear pocket. Level cut, we’re on slim, normal size. Finally, the preparation was conducted in the Morocco.
If you opt for an April 77 jeans, it’s generally enjoy the rock universe of the brand and its cuts slims. As such the ‘Dictator’, chosen here Cup, can boast about being a reference in the field, having made its success. On the site, it is recommended to choose this jeans a size below, certainly to take into account future relaxation of the fabric. Unpacking, we discover a well stock jeans, to the rigid and thick fabric and a rather peculiar colour with white threads creating this effect limits speckled with special weaving of denim. Having thus chosen the jeans in a size below on the advice of the brand, the first thread is rather difficult given the Cup really slim of the “Dictator”. Indeed, I had not even considered it moulds as my thighs and my calves who aren’t yet the thicker. The last button closes also difficult, that’s for the best if we take into account that the fabric will relax. At first glance, the fabric is even more sensation once worn. As for the cut, she is more of what we could appoint “skinny”, and to this extent it seems perfect. Don’t you make mistake-so not on this point! Also, after a few ports (on the order of 3 days), the jeans really relaxes to achieve a much better comfort.
Model tested: “Slim Mick.”
Balibaris offers since 2012 jeans selvedge among permanent parts of his collection. In a short time, the brand managed to make his mark by offering a quality product at fair price, as it is often cited as a reference for those seeking to procure a first quality raw jeans. To hoist his jeans to such a rank, the French brand has chosen a gross provided 13oz selvedge denim by the renowned Japanese Kuroki. For the rest, she played a background map of the basic simplicity, elegant. His jeans is a 5 classic pockets with buttons and flat rivets silver. The belt contains 5 passers-by including a front with a detail Recalling the selvedge of fabric. Its cut is slim thighs and narrows slightly on the bottom to reach a 17cm opening. Finally, it is directed to the Portugal.
The growing side of the Balibaris jeans is not usurped unpacking. The mark did not want to do in the original side canvas with a Basic. Indeed, it is dyed a deep Indigo, who made a strong impression. The details are treated with this turning to the selvedge finish, although some lament the lack of a nice patch leather belt. Whatever it is, the level of finish meets the standards of the high-end and nothing beyond. If its thickness is not on paper the most great, the feel of the canvas is rigid and let some slight stain marks on the fingers. Door, the jeans reveals a little more its assets with its regular slim cut. Too bad that the crotch is so low, otherwise it would have had the highest rating of this comparison.
Model tested: “ED80”.
If you consume the jeans in such a way today, namely gross and realized in fabric selvedge, Edwin there is no stranger. Indeed, its creator being fan of American culture imported machines don’t used more after the second world war to the fact of production policy large scale in the United States to continue to weave denim by hand. To this extent, Edwin is undoubtedly the most authentic of the great jeaners. Then, it was impossible not to include one of its products in this roundup. It’s their cut “ED-80”, a “tapered” slim, is tightening down we chose here. It is made of a fabric selvedge 14oz from workshops Kuroki, Japanese dealer of the brand. There are 5 passers-by of belt, pockets riveted on the front and a “corner pocket” selvedge finishing. The jeans closes with a buttonhole in silver metal. Is quite rare to be stressed, the back pockets have No stitching, characteristic usually inseparable from the Edwin jeans. Also, we note the presence of any patch in leather. Finally, this model is assembled in Tunisia.
When acquiring an Edwin jeans, more so if his canvas is selvedge, it has the right to expect a certain standard of quality. It is indeed the case at first sight with a canvas with a beautiful appearance with white highlights regular and very stiff to the touch. If choosing to many exclusive models in Europe manufacturing in the Maghreb can be to regret, the level of finishing is impeccable here. We always appreciate the selvedge of a pocket corner or even the silver buttons chosen by the brand. Also, for those who wonder if it is possible to find one of their jeans without the famous stitching of the back pockets, it is some times the case to reach a different audience. Still, pity not find here patch leather who would have brought a more in terms of design. In putting it on, well known lovers of the brand ‘ED-80’ Cup turns out to be very efficient with his leg up and down slim. Despite its rigidity, the jeans are really very comfortable from the first ports… “ready-to-wear”, as they say.
Model tested: Postal Blue Skinny
Shortly after its launch in 2013, we were testing the concept Gustin and his jeans quality at low prices. Since then, the brand exploded, quickly becoming a reference when it comes to beautiful paintings. His secret? A similar system of bulk orders: they offer a canvas and once they are sure to be able to produce the entire, they launch the production and received his jeans a little more than one month after the end of the sale.
The model that we got is cut in the canvas Gustin named “post blue”. She weighs 14oz, comes from the Japan, ends with a blue border, and stands out for its very clear indigo color, more than that of a classic raw jeans. Found on the jeans classic ingredients from Gustin with its 5 belt passers-by, including one with a selvedge finish on the back and the presence of so many rivets on the front. On the back, we note the presence of a patch serious natural leather of the logo of the brand and finishing signature with this electric blue fashion line. We have selected their skinny cut, which is a slim on all along the jeans. Finally, this piece is made in the United States.
My experience with Gustin has always been very mixed, not for the level of finishing of their products and the quality of their paintings, since here the American brand is further evidence of a product posing in the most beautiful ways. Its fabric is atypical with his blue “post blue” well more colorful that custom meets the eye. The jeans is rigid as it should, displays all the classic characteristics of the genre, or even more, and would make fade more than one on paper. Where Gustin is a complicated purchase to consider, it’s at the level of the cut. Indeed, their slim is too straight, their skinny too adjusted and it is almost impossible to know its size the first time. It has been here with a pair of jeans which the closure of the last button was a difficult and that mould my legs too. More than a month after a command, it’s infuriating to see that he deserved one size bigger without being able to make it back, even if he relaxes rather quickly.
Model tested: “101 s Slim Rider.”
In recent years, Lee pays tribute to its rich history in the world of the jeans with the 101 collection. Like its rival, the American brand offers all a range of products inspired by those who have made its success through the ages. Headlining, there are many jeans to a selvedge fabric woven to the Japan which one we tested for this comparison care: “101S. For its construction, a denim in white 13oz selvedge finishing has been used. The characteristics of this jeans are the classics of the genre: 5 passers-by, rivets on the front, patch leather love, buttonhole metal, not to mention the famous pockets signature from Lee with their stitching in wave and the seams in cross. Level cut, we’re on a slim becoming slightly narrower from the knee.
His name and reputation, the range Lee 101 intrigues and seduces anything with the design of her jeans. Indeed, everything seems always stand perfectly upstream, at the Visual level or at the level of the data sheet. And we are not disappointed at reception by noting the superb finishes and the canvas to the rigid touch of their jeans. Objectively speaking, when we look closely, we see no complaints about the room in it and even all subjective points: the colors of the brand, the shape of the pockets, one that might seem a little too much for some. Whatever it is, everything is treated with copper rivets, alternating yellow and white topstitching and these points on the cross at the ends of the back pockets. As for the cut, it’s a slim in the first sense of the term, adjusted throughout the leg marrying the thighs and calves without mould. It is quite nice to wear and offers a very good fell on a pair of sneakers.
Model tested: “501” Selvedge
If Levi’s launched to Vintage line reviving the products of his glorious past while imposing a very high standard of quality and a U.S. manufacturing, the global ‘king’ of the jeans also tried to a selvedge fabrics for its generic range. According to the seasons and the arrivals, it is available on various cuts like “501”, “504” or even “511”.
Today, it is the most mythical of jeans that competition in this comparison with its famous red label hanging on his right buttock. Well, to tell you the truth, he could well have formed the basis for almost all of the models of this article as it is a reference. Thus, 5 passers-by, the rivets on the front but not behind, closing at buttons and even the selvedge canvas, it was the first to own. This way, we’re here in the presence of a denim having undergone the process home ‘Water Less’ saving a considerable water during its manufacture. For weight, Levi’s has opted for a light 12 oz, bias is understandable when it comes to its main range. Finally, ‘501’ Cup has changed somewhat over time, it is always straight but now narrows slightly from the knee.
Hard to make a comparison of jeans without include Levi’s. The fact is that the brand seems to lose interest in fabric selvedge for its generic range and not saving often only to the Levi’s Vintage or Made & Crafted. Saw it alongside all the models presented and can’t help but think it isn’t in the same court at various levels. The canvas while selvedge is not too rigid and has a less nice general appearance while still qualitative, finishes are honest but jump less than those of the competition. Finally, the Cup has become too wide in the face of expectations that have evolved over time. Clearly, he does not play in the same court and suffered, we admit willingly, the relative youth of the members of the jury.
Naked & Famous
Model tested: “Super Skinny Guy.”
In a few years, the Canadian brand Naked & Famous made his hole to become a reference in terms of quality jeans name (which don’t is not holes). Its creator, Brandon is a big fan of Japanese culture and especially of raw jeans that age on their carrier. So far, it is reported by a few feats of arms for the less specific, between the thicker jeans of the world who stand alone (37oz), who feels the icing when you scratch, it gives you the kind of home.
A more serious extent brand has a complete range of classic raw jeans which the thickness of the paintings varies from very light to many more thick. One of their best-selling is undoubtedly the ‘Left Hand Twill”, a denim 13.75 oz from the Japan. Its particularity is its weaving ‘left hand’ giving this softer and much more extensible than a natural twill twill. Aside from that, he is worthy of all the classics of the genre with his belt 5 passers-by, rivets in front, buttonhole in metal and leather patch. Its cut is slim from the top and narrows gradually.
Being me even a strong carrier of products of this Canadian brand known to fans, I could realize its impact from a jury (including myself) who have never practiced. At first glance, everything seems perfect in any point: the canvas looks superb and light reflections, it is rigid to the touch and finishes level cannot impress so it is good. The rest follows at the level of the cut with a button a hard lockable punishment and a slim leg “just right.” For bringing This model up to its highest level of wear, I can attest to its proven quality. Well, to tell you the truth, it is still flaws.
Model tested: “Grim Timm.
We do not necessarily know, but Nudie is a brand of jeans from Sweden. After having conquered the Scandinavian market, they spread in Europe to become one of the names that matter in respect of jeans. The keys to its success: the quality of his paintings, an excellent manufacturing that made his jeans of sustainable products and some work on the cuts. Initially, we always put a period of adaptation to navigate on what model to choose but once his first purchase, we’re like a fish in water.
Our Cup favorite at Nudie is the ‘Grim Tim’ selected for the care of this comparison in a canvas selvedge of 14.75 oz organic cotton from a Japanese supplier of Kaihara Mills name workshops. We find him all of the generic characteristics of the brand jeans: 5 bystanders, a buttonhole and metal rivets belt then these recognizable Orange stitching of the thousand. On the back, it has a nice clear leather patch and famous decorations signature on the pockets. The cut is a real slim in the pure sense of the term and it was made in Italy.
At first glance, opt for a Nudie product, like some of his colleagues, testifies always a reliable purchase, a minimum level of quality approach. But when discover the jeans, which the jury was especially its visual impact.In effect, the omnipresent orange of topstitching associated with its indigo dyeing cause the feeling of being in the presence of a jeans straight out of a cartoon. Obviously, this aspect “too new” fade to the wire ports, even though the impression of “too much” might to restrain some before purchase. Regarding the level of finishing, it is very good and shows no fault and surprised by the cleanliness of its seams tightened and strengthened on sensitive points. Once donned, can appreciate his slim, normal size cut and your rigid fabric that it will take a few ports to break. Undeniably, it is a safe bet.
Model tested: Skinny Fit
In recent years, Uniqlo to significantly increased the number of its outlets in the french territory. A boon for jeans lovers who can now access their selvedge cheap model that they have much more easily over time in various cuts and colors.
For this test, we selected the model ‘skinny’ version selvedge. At the time, the ‘slim’ was already appeared in a test and his Cup had seemed slightly too straight despite all the satisfactions he had made. Here, Uniqlo aims a clientele in Chase of the unbeatable price/quality ratio by using, in his usual, a we-don’t-as basic version. Carved into a canvas of from Japanese Kaihara Mills workshops, we don’t communicate us weight but its share of spandex. In addition, the jeans book classic features with his belt five loops, its rivets and its metal button, then his zipper.
When we usually go at Uniqlo, one is forced to expect to find a piece that is a true Basic. Thus, in the middle of all these models of quality, it doesn’t shine brightly and the difference in range shows. Its fabric is not of the most beautiful and looks dull, it includes buttonhole or patch in leather, no juicy details. But strictly speaking, if we leave aside the design, its level of production is very good and there is no default insertion buttons, or no wire sticking out. The hem in chainstitch is also neat. The touch of his canvas to assess its weight. It is light enough, absolutely not rigid thanks to its stretch and can be evaluated around 12 oz. On the other hand, it is very difficult to put on and compresses the thighs and calves. The closure of the last button, on the other hand, is an ordeal. He certainly deserved one size bigger, but from our memories, the Uniqlo paintings relax really quickly. It is the case in the second, then the third port. Inside, everything is not perfect, but with this Uniqlo jeans, there are not bad for the price paid!
This is now the moment to conclude with our summary table – which I hope – you will be many to look forward after completing this series of tests. Below is a summary of the notes that we have allocated to each model and an average which is a good lead in order to classify them. You will find close price that will appreciate the relationship between the two. This can especially help make a choice not based only on the final score, but confined to certain budget. Good shopping!
|April 77||Dictator Japanese Selvedge||3.5||3.75||4||3.75||€220|
|Edwin||Ed – 80||3.75||4||3.75||3.83||€ 139,90|
|Gustin||Skinny zip Blue Selvedge||3.75||4||2||3.25||€87|
|Lee||101 s Slim Rider||4||3.75||3.25||3.66||€129,90|
|Naked & Famous||Superskinnyguy Left Hand Twill||4.4||4.5||4.5||4.5||€160|
|Nudie||Grim Tim Dry Selvedge||3.75||3.75||4||3,91||€180|
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